Sizing a battery: watt-hours, not amp-hours, and a real-world range table
Difficultyeasy
Range depends on watt-hours (volts × amp-hours), your speed and how much you pedal. Rough numbers for a 500 W hub motor, mixed terrain, moderate pedaling:
| Pack | Wh | Range |
|---|---|---|
| 36V 10Ah | 360 | 15 to 25 mi |
| 48V 13Ah | 624 | 25 to 40 mi |
| 48V 17.5Ah | 840 | 35 to 55 mi |
| 52V 20Ah | 1040 | 45 to 70 mi |
Throttle-only at 25 mph on a heavy bike can halve all of those. Buy a pack with brand-name cells (Samsung, LG, Panasonic/Sanyo, Molicel), a BMS rated above your controller's max amps, and a case that bolts to your frame, not a bag that bounces. A cheap pack is the one thing on an e-bike that can burn your house down; this is not the place to save $80.
#battery#watt-hours#range#18650#21700#ebike
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The embedded video is clearer than the official service manual, which is a little embarrassing for the manufacturer.
Should be the same procedure, the part moved slightly but the steps match.
Would this work on the older model? Mine is about ten years older than the one shown.
Upvoted for the safety notes alone.
Would this work on the older model? Mine is about ten years older than the one shown.
I did the same repair last month and your step 3 is where I got stuck. Wish I had this then.
Would this work on the older model? Mine is about ten years older than the one shown.
Yep, same here. The second time is always faster.
Question: do you need to disconnect power for this or is it safe to leave it plugged in?